Sunburns and speedos

I drove a car in Beirut!! For those who don't know what kind of an accomplishment that is, picture a world where lane lines might as well be invisible, traffic lights exist for mere decoration, and one-way streets are only used as one way if it's convenient. Oh yeah, speed limits are not exactly adhered to either. But I survived, and it felt a bit like a real-life video game where you have to be super vigilant of all the other death machines around you. It was fun but not something I plan to do again, it was just out of necessity.

It's weird to be back after almost exactly a year. Some of my favorite restaurants are gone, but there are plenty of new pubs, all tiny and crowded and hot-boxed with tobacco smoke. But the food never disappoints. I can't believe I never put fresh mint in my hummus before, I feel like i had a revelation...

I really missed all the little markets, with bags of lentils and unlabeled spices piled on shelves in the doorways, hummus, hanging carcasses, flower shops all around, men parked on the corners with espresso machines in the back of their vans ready to dole out caffeine whenever you need it, and trying to not get hit while you race across the street. I love where I live in long beach, but it feels so much more alive here.

And where else will you see a group of shirtless sunburned men playing soccer on a concrete slab literally right next to the sea, with one wearing nothing but a bright blue speedo and matching sneakers, and another with running shorts short enough to expose his prosthetic leg.

Pictures to come later :)